Orugallu or Ekasila nagaram famous for medical and engineering colleges today and also popularly known as Warangal was on our “To
visit’” list for long. It is not very far from my place and we had been close to its sister city Kazipet long
back but Warangal for some reason was eluding us for 14 long years.
It took a sudden plan one fine December morning to travel to the tricities of Kazipet-Hanumakonda and
Warangal. What was to be ideally a two day visit turned out as a day trip since
we could not get accommodated in the Ramappa lake nature resort we had chosen to stay (we
were not interested in a hotel stay) . There was a telangana Doctors conference
and so both the resorts were booked. But we were not disappointed with the trip,
because of the beautiful glory of
orugallu that we experienced during our short visit.
It was late morning when we
started, after a 2.5 hour drive ( 80kms
was driven by my daughter) on beautiful toll road and through Kakatiya kala thoranams , driving past the famed NIT , we visited the 1000 pillared temple which was pretty well
maintained by the archaeological department( but they could do much better) but….
It was something else that stole my heart in the land of Kakatiyas.
It was around 3 in the noon when we came out of
the temple, unsure where to head next, we asked an autodriver what else fell on
the route he told “Ilavarangal”. I asked him to repeat, he said again “Ilavarangal”….now
it was time for me to repeat if I heard him right …I asked him “ Ilavarangal??!!”…He
said yes. I asked him “Yeh ilavarangal kya hai? Mandir hai ya palace?...and he said "palace".
Excited and convinced with
his answer, we took a U turn and travelled 20kms past Kakatiya medical college
and drove up on a road flanked by, what
looked like a fort wall. We stopped
there and asked somebody the way to the
palace and it is was there things fell in place. The person who helped with
directions pronounced clearly it was “Kila Warangal” meaning “ Fort Warangal” it is a fort and not
a palace....and we were in the right direction.
Finally when we reached the
place, we were initially disappointed to see
no fort and just ruins on an open land. The entry fee was only 5rs and
what one could prominently see on that open land was the thoranam which we had
all along been seeing ever since we entered the tricities through kazipet. The
thoranam is the stamp of Kakatiya architecture which is a beautiful arch with
intricate carvings which one can see at most places in the tri cities . The kakatiya kala thoranam
is even the Telangana state emblem and so was familiar
with it.
Having come thus far, we bought the tickets and entered the place
and only when we were closer to the rearranged remnants and ran our fingers on
them, it slowly sinked into us what a
palatial place this must have been in
the 12th century under the Kakatiyas.
The kakatiyas who were
originally fisher folk were blessed by Kakati Devi who then became Royals. They
ruled the whole Eastern southern range …from Chattisgarh to Karnataka upto
Trichy in the south. Orugallu or Warangal was their capital till the Delhi
sultanate defeated them in the 14th century and as is the tradition
of the invaders, they ordered destruction of this fort which consisted of a
svayambhu shiva tgemple , a temple of
Ganesha, Nandi, the lovely wheel structure and many beautifully sculptured
pillars with intricate carvings on polished black granite. All that remains today are the remnants which are maintained
and rearranged by ASI and are a
photographers delight. On closer look
one realizes the stunning
craftsmenship when just chisels and
hammers must have been tools. Another notable point of this dynasty is that King
Ganapatideva who constructed this fort had a daughter Rudramadevi whom he
treated more like a son and appointed as his heir. I found this “treatment” something ahead of its times.
Unfortunately, there is no
labels or boards describing the place
although there is a sound and light show in English and Telugu late in the
evening, which we had to miss .
When we drove back after a
visit to the Kushmahal in the fort’s vicinity, I could’nt help but marvel at the the splendor of the
Kakatiyas and I decided I must read the Kakatiya history and I am yet to read a
detailed one.
This place is a
photographers delight but unfortunately my pictures are all in DSLR which is
now with my daughter in the hostel. But I present here a few pictures taken from my hand phone.( will edit to add those DSLR pictures)
well done on completion and it seems to be a good place :) thank you for sharing
ReplyDeleteBikram's
my pleasure Bikram, thanks for reading:)
DeleteInteresting. The Kakatiyas of Warangal were a famous dynasty. Would be nice to see the archeological ruins - there is something about physically going to the place that brings history alive.
ReplyDeleteWell done on your 7 days blogging. Take a break and keep coming back. Your blog is a treat to read and in this series I learnt so many things starting from chanticleer to "ilavarangal" !
Thanks Ramesh, honored and humbled that you committed to reading them amidst your busy schedule and leaving encouraging and insightful comments. Thanks much!
DeleteIt's fantastic that you got to enjoy the glimpses of the history and the symphony of echoes heard centuries ago!
ReplyDeleteOh yes Shilpa, it was a fantastic experience worth sharing and recording hence this post. Honestly, yes, i could sense and feel the history of this place.
Delete